1. What is a Calibration code and/ or Strategy code?
2. What is my axle code and where can it be found?
3. Why does it ask for the Octane in my area?
4. Do I have to remove my fuel pump or fan fuse as noted in the instruction booklet?
5. Which flash tuners can you write custom tuning for?
6. What are the differences between a Custom tune and a Canned tune?
7. Whats the difference between the Performance, Torque and Race tunes?
8. What vehicles can a Race tune be written for?
9. What modifications require new tunes, on a naturally aspirated car?
10. Do I have to return my car to stock to switch between programs?
11. Can you write a mail order tune for my Supercharged or Turbocharged application?
12. Can you write a Mileage tune for my application?
13. Which is better Diablosport Predator or SCT X-calibrator brand tuners?
14. Which intake is better, the C&L intake or the JLT intake? For the 05 and newer Mustangs.
15. What can I use to clean my air filter from my C&L or JLT intake kit?
16. Can you write a tune for my Airaid intake with the Venturi removed?
17. Can you make a tune for my Ebay intake?
18. Can you tune for the GMS intake?
19. Will you ship to me overseas or outside the US?
20. And/or will you use USPS?
On most vehicles the calibration code is located on the PCM on a white decal. It will always start with three letters and end with a number. They will be in bold print by themselves. For example an 2005 Mustang code is CDC3 or a 2002 Ranger may be VQP0. The calibration code is the level of software for your specific vehicle. I will need to know this information to start with the correct code for your vehicle.
The Strategy code is basically the same thing as the calibration code but it is a 7 digit code that is read from the PCM using a hand held device, wether it be a tuner, NGS scan tool or some other type of vehicle interface device. This is actually the best information you can provide because this is read directly from the PCM and gives me the exact level of your software.
Dealerships from time to time can reflash a PCM and this will change both the Strategy code and the calibration code. Although Ford provides the dealerships with decals to put on the car to say what the new level of calibration is most dont install it. If a tune is written for the wrong calibration code and then loaded into the vehicle then the vehicle will not start. The vehicle can be returned to the stock or previous tunes but the tunes written for the wrong code can not be used.
To find your code please refer to the section for your vehicle and you will find a link to this on the order forms for the tunes and tuners.
The axle code is the code that tells us what your rear end ratio is. This way I can ensure that the tune file has the correct settings for your specific ratio as sometimes many different ratios are used on the same vehicle and the file that I start from may not be setup right for yours.
This code will be found across the bottom of the white decal located on the inside of the drivers door jam. It will be a two digit code of either numbers or letters combined.
Also, if you know what the rear end ratio is on your vehicle then you can also enter this information into the order form instead of the axle code.
This is a crucial for proper tune for premium fuel. I need to know if you only have 91 or 93 so I can ensure I write your tune files for the proper octane if you request a 91 or 93 tune. Its also a guide that I use so if you order a 93 tune and only have 91 available to you then I need to go over this with you to ensure you get the right tune.
For F150 or SVT Focuses YES, as they take an extremely long time to load the programs into and can run the risk of discharging the battery. On most other vehicles I don't require this. Ive never done it on any Ranger, Explorer, Sport Trac, or Mustang application and they have all done fine.
Currently I am a SCT and Diablosport dealer. With that said I can write tune files for the Diablosport Predator as well as all of the different versions of the SCT X-calibrator.
My custom tunes are written using the information that Ive gained from countless hours on the dyno tuning specific combinations and such. Also using the knowledge Ive gained from my training and experience. Each tune is written based off of previous tune files using customer feedback as well to help further enhance my tunes.
The base tunes, or Canned tunes as they are referred to online, are the base tunes from the company that produces the tuner. They are good for minor bolt-ons and to get you started if youve purchased the tuner elsewhere. My tunes are greatly improved over these base files and in most cases are night and day different in every aspect.
The Torque and Performance programs differ in the range they are aimed at for making power. The Torque is more so a daily driver program that focuses in on the 1500-3500 rpm's band. In order to do so well in that range though it does give up a few HP up top and this is why I break it apart from my Performance adjustments. The Performance program is aimed at more of a 3000rpm and up rpm band focusing in more on the top end horsepower and all out performance driving. This is a great track tune but also works well daily driven.
The Race tune will further enhance the drivability of your new Mustang. Using the highest grade of fuel available in your area I can write a tune that will bring the throttle response to life. Enough so that I wouldn't recommend it for daily driving use as it may try to jump out from a stop and possibly even spin the tires. This wouldn't be good if you were beside a police car. One of the true benefits of this tune is that it doesn't increase the timing or reduce the fuel so it can be used with only the premium grade fuel available in your area. Finally with the automatics I use an entirely new shifting curve and torque converter scheduling to further enhance the all out performance of the car.
All of my programs are safe to use for daily driving unless we agree on doing something otherwise.
At this time I can only write the Race tune for 2005 and newer Mustangs, both V6 and GT.
On a 2005 and newer Mustang items such as air intakes, CMVC delete plates, and Long tube headers are some of the only parts that require tune file adjustments.
On the earlier model vehicles in general any MAF sensor change, or Long tube headers require tune file changes. On these early cars these changes may not be able to done via mail order and may require dyno tuning.
Things like Throttle body spacers, Throttle bodies, and Under Drive Pulleys do not require tunes.
On all vehicles different sized injectors, Forced Induction, Nitrous and other major engine changes require tune file changes and may not be able to be adjusted for via mail order.
No, the only time I recommend returning the car to stock is if you are going in for service or emissions testing.
I dont do mail order Forced Induction tuning because there are so many variables to consider. The best thing I would recommend is finishing the Forced Induction setup and then paying the extra to have it professionally tuned. Rent a U-haul and budget an extra $1000 to get it tuned, in the end you'll be happy and have a safe, reliable fast vehicle. If you can bring the vehicle to me then I can dynotune it for you but not mail order. I do not do tuning to start the vehicle and just get it to me.
No, mileage tunes are nothing more then smoke and mirrors. The best tune to use for mileage is a 87 performance tune because it is the tune with the least amount of changes from the stock tune.
When you are using my custom tuning programs then there is no difference in the power from either. I can write the same tunes using either.
The main differences, for now, are that the SCT X-calibrator uses a USB interface and the Diablosport Predator uses a serial interface. This only becomes a slight issue when uploading new tunes into the device as most PC based computers today don't have a serial port. Still, I sell a USB to serial converter that works just as well and will make this a non-issue.
Both the C&L intakes and the JLT intake make nearly the exact same power and torque on the dyno. The question is the price and quality you are looking for.
The JLT is a more cost effective design In that it uses a plastic intake pipe and coupler with a billet aluminum 88mm maf section.
The C&L Street has a high quality fully aluminum intake pipe and 85mm maf section. The C&;L Racer intake has a nice rotomolded plastic inlet pipe and aluminum 95mm maf section.
All of them have a plastic heat shield to help prevent under hood air from entering the air filter.
You wont go wrong with any of the three intakes you choose above as they are all excellent performers.
These kits come with S&B air filters and can be used with either the S&;B cleaning kits or the K&N cleaning kits available at most any auto parts store.
Yes and No. Ive dyntested this intake in both ways, with and without the Venturi and it doesnt make anymore power with it removed if at all and even looses some bottom end torque.
The reason is that with the Venturi Insert removed it makes the MAF section of the pipe 101mm which is larger then most supercharged applications require. This is extremely too large for a n/a car.
If its a href brand intake that Ive tuned with before then yes, if its an no-name intake that someones just put together a few pieces of tubing and a filter then no.
No, I will not tune for this intake due to poor business practices from GMS towards me and my business associates.
I will only ship to US and Canadian addresses and I will only ship using UPS.
The reason I will not use US Mail is that their tracking methods and delivery times are poor and usually end up making for a bad transaction overall.
I will not ship outside the US or using any means other then UPS. The ONLY exception are to APO addresses using USPS.